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My well used burnisher

What in the world is a flat fid burnisher and why do I use this in my metalwork?

It’s is a tool that is used in the fabrication of stained glass windows.  Prior to becoming a metalsmith,  my artistic journey took me down the path of being a stained glass artist. I still love the medium and currently, I do a very limited number of stained glass projects….mainly for our home. Every medium has its tool set and this burnisher has migrated its way to my metalsmithing tool box.

Use of fid for stained glass work

Photo courtesy of Delphi Stained Glass

Its original purpose was to smooth (burnish) copper foil onto the individual glass pieces that make up the stained glass window’s design. When doing stained glass windows in copper foil, each piece of glass is wrapped in sticky backed copper foil. The foil must adhere to the glass and to ensure that it does so, a burnisher is used.  The tool is used to rub the top of the copper foil onto the glass, eliminating little bubbles and making sure the contact seal is good.  When done properly, the foil is secured to the glass in preparation for soldering the pieces together to form the window.  There actually are several different types of burnishers for that type of glass work and I have a mixture of them.  However, I found this one to be particularly useful in my metalwork.

I use it to help form bezel strip around stones that I set.  Because it is plastic, it doesn’t mar the metal.  It works better than my fingers because it is stronger.  At the starting point of the bezel strip, I will work the bezel around the stone, hold the wire strip in place with my fingers of my left hand (I’m a righty) and use the tool to gently ease the bezel around curves and corners.  When I’m done, I have the stone shape outline in the bezel…just what I wanted.

Sometimes after I’ve soldered my bezel strip together, it’s out of shape from the original shape of the stone it will hold.  Another opportunity to use the tool here…. I position the misshapen bezel around the stone and use the fid burnisher to straighten and reshape the bezel strip to the stone shape again.  This also helps me to ensure that my bezel outline is right before its final soldering into place on the back plate of the setting.  You can’t really fix a misshapen bezel once it’s been soldered down on the back plate.

One thing I have found, and hopefully you have too, is that some tools can safely be used for another purpose beside the original one.  Lexi is a great advocate of this principle.  She has found lots of things that she will use in her studio, that are outside of their intended purpose.  Take one of her classes for those tips and tricks!  Experimentation, within reason, is a good thing.

You can find the flat fid burnisher at your local stained glass supplier, if there is one in your area.  Call ahead and make sure they carry them. Of course, there are many online sources for them too.  They are relatively inexpensive, ranging from $1 – $3.  I found one similar to mine at All Stained Glass for $1 and another at a mid-range price ($1.80) at Harmony Stained Glass.  However, All Stained Glass has a $35 minimum order requirement, while I don’t think Harmony requires a minimum order amount.  Delphi Stained Glass is another resource too.  If you are considering adding one to your toolbox, in this case I would encourage you to shop locally and avoid shipping costs and/or minimum order requirements.  Just my thoughts.

This is a tool I use every time I prepare my bezel strip for the stone setting process.  I’ve tried using the handles from tooth brushes, but their handle shapes don’t work as well for me as the nice edges and curves of the fid.

I hope you found this segment fun and insightful.  What tools do you have in your metalsmithing shop that were not originally intended for metalwork?

Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

For this week’s Talkin’ Tools segment, I thought I would talk about one of the handiest tools I have in my studio…tweezers!  I have 2 pairs of these. I keep one at my work bench and the other at my soldering station. These are my favorites because of the extra sharp, pointed tips.

Yes I do have other tweezers that I use, but none of them work as well as this particular one.

Frequently I need to pick up tiny pieces of metal or wire as I am fabricating my work.  Because they have such great pointy tips, I can easily pick up the smallest of things.  At the solder station, I use them for placing tiny pieces of solder or little silver balls that I will solder into place like the ones you have seen in Mountainesque.  Here’s an example:

Red Mountain
Photo Credit ~ Daniel Krucoff

When I try to pick up super small things, I find it pretty difficult to do so with my fingers.  There are times when a tool makes your work easier and these tweezers certainly are a great asset for small, tiny pieces.  I can position things exactly where I want them and not fumble for a few minutes trying to get things into their proper place.  If you look at how small some of the decorative silver balls are on Red Mountain, I think that helps put the use of these tweezers into perspective.  They are a great assistant in the studio.

I purchased mine from Indian Jewelry Supply.  If you look closely, you can see the part number is still taped to them.  If you can’t read it, the item number is 249-T401MM for Indian Jewelry Supply part list.

What are some of your favorite tools that you use daily in your studios?

That concludes this week’s segment of Talkin’ Tools.  Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

My Pepe 90 MM Rolling Mill with Newton looking on in the background…..

For today’s segment of Talkin’ Tools, I thought I would discuss some of the heavy artillery in my studio.  In this picture is my Pepe Rolling Mill.  As you can tell by this photo, basset supervision exists in my studio pretty much all of the time!  😀

I purchased my rolling mill from Indian Jewelry Supply (IJS) a couple of years ago.  They had the best price I could find on the web and they were offering free shipping at the time too!   I do purchase a number of my supplies from IJS because of their prices, customer service, quality and fast delivery times.

Why on earth do I need this piece of equipment in my studio?  Well, there are a number of reasons, besides it’s just a really cool tool! A rolling mill is a machine designed to produce thinner gauges of sheet metal and wire.  But there is more to it than that.  Here are a few of my main reasons to use this equipment:

  1. I purchase my easy solder in wire form.  One of the things Lexi taught me was to use the rolling mill to flatten that solder wire.  This helps prevent using too much solder in your application. Since I only have easy solder in wire form, rolling it through the mill tells me it’s easy solder.  Added bonus, it’s in a consistent flat piece.  It helps me to identify my easy solder so I don’t mixed it up with something like silver wire.  Yes, sadly, I’ve mixed things up…chalk that up to experience and lessons learned.  😦
  2. Conveying patterns to metal.  This is just plain fun!  You can transfer textures to your metal from papers, wire shapes, netting, fabric textures, brass sheets to mention a few things.  Use your imagination, the sky is the limit, although somethings don’t work well.  Just experiment and have fun.  The process kind of reminds me of the old wringer washer my Mom had when I was a kid…those were the days before automatic washers with the spin cycles.  Can you imagine?  Her machine had these wringers to run clothes through to remove the excess water… I’m really dating myself!  The process is virtually the same with the rolling mill.  Place the texture you want to transfer against your annealed metal, sandwich the two materials together in a manila folder (cut to size) to hold them in place as you roll them through the mill.  The pressure exerted by the mill rolls will transfer the texture to your metal.  Pretty cool, yes?
  3. Sometimes you have a thicker gauge of metal, say 18 gauge, and you want to reduce it to 20 gauge if you don’t have any around.  The compression will cause the metal to ‘spread’ and thin out to a smaller gauge.

There are lots of uses for this machine, but I’m just covering a few of the things I use mine for.

They come in a number of different widths 90 – 130 mm, completely flat or combo.  Mine is completely flat.   With the combo, half the roller is flat and the other half has graduated grooves used for working with wire.  They even have automatic ones, but those seem a bit frightening to me, not to mention VERY pricey!  I shudder to think of getting a finger or something caught in an automatic rolling mill.  Clearly for a one person studio like mine, the size I have works very well.

It’s important to keep your roller surfaces clean and free from debris.  Particles can be accidentally transferred to your metal forming imprints you may not want.  When not in use, I keep mine covered and I wipe the roller surfaces with a light 3 in 1 oil to maintain them.

I am a huge fan of Pepe Tools.  Their quality is outstanding and with proper care, this is one piece of equipment that I think will last a life time.  Something nice to pass on to a future metalsmith.

For those of you shopping around for a rolling mill, I would encourage you to check out the line Pepe offers.  If you have a rolling mill, I’d love to know what kind and your uses for it too!

Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

A few of my hand files

When I started to learn metalsmithing, Lexi stressed the importance of hand finishing my work.  Part of that process involves using some of these hand files, along with sand paper and other things.

In the picture at the top of this post, I have my size 0, 2, and 4 files.  For the most part, I start with my 0 file as it takes off the rough edges the fastest and then I work my way to the finer files.  I don’t always need to do that, it just depends on the finish I’m trying to achieve on the edges of my metal.

All of these files are manufactured by Grobet.  I purchased mine through Tevel at Allcraft.  One thing I’ve learned is buying quality tools is money well spent.  With proper care, your files will last a long time and you will be protecting your investment.

My set of number 1 Habilis files, also by Grobet.

Generally I use the number 0 and number 1 files and my work is done.  My goal is to get that nice, clean edge on my pieces.  The hand finish process creates a smooth finish that will prevent the jewelry from snagging clothing or feeling sharp to the wearer.

One of the added benefits I find with hand finishing pieces is that I find it very soothing to do.  I love working with my hands.  As I hand finish my pieces, I feel like I’m putting a part of my soul into the piece…kind of bringing it to life with the gentle care of crafting the metal in its final form.  It is a zen thing for me, no doubt.

How to protect your investment. It’s important to keep the files clean and the file cleaner, shown below, helps to pick out the bits of metal shavings that can accumulate in the file’s teeth.

The File Cleaner

This last file I want to show is is also a Grobet….it’s very small compared to the others and is used for very fine work, like gently filing the edge of a bezel.  Wonderful for delicate jobs where the others will just overpower and possibly ruin your metalwork.

The Number 6 File

The number 6 file is expensive.  I bought mine last year and it was over $60.  It’s only 4 or 5 inches long.  However it is a wonderful little file for precision work and I have found it to be worth every penny I spent.  This one also came from Allcraft.

Why do I hand finish my work?  The obvious answer is that it was the way I was taught.  However, I’ve had plenty of opportunities to explore other options and I still come back to hand finishing my work.  As I said earlier, it is a very soothing part of the process for me and,  in my opinion, the end result cannot be rivaled.

Another way some metalsmiths use for their final finish work is a tumbler.  I actually have one that I have never used.  Ironically, I bought it when I was doing wire wrap work and knew it was a good way to work harden the wire and finish the pieces.  Frankly, I just never found the courage to put my pieces in a tumbler because I was wire wrapping fused glass cabochons and I just didn’t trust the tumbling process to not harm my glass.  I had these visions of chipped or scratched glass cabs with my wire work destroyed and gnarled….just never felt like trying the tumbler.  Someday I’ll need to explore it on something small just to be able to compare the results.

I recognize that metalsmiths choose a variety of ways to finish their jewelry, some based on how they have been taught, some on alternative methods they’ve discovered and just enjoy, some it’s just their signature way of completing a piece.  I think the way an artist finishes their pieces becomes a matter of personal preference and what they like in the final look for their work.

At this point, because I enjoy working with my hands so much, I will continue to hand finish my pieces.  I find all of these files are an invaluable part of my process that allow me to achieve the look and feel I want in the personal adornments I create.

That concludes this week’s segment of Talkin’ Tools.  For those metalsmiths in the crowd, what is your favorite method to finish your work and why?

Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

Stanley Tools ~ Barbara’s Way Tool Bag

Those of you who know me know my passion for the color purple. I can spot this color from a mile away. Ok, maybe not, but in this case, an aisle away.  🙂

About a month or so ago, Dan & I were doing our weekly shopping and skirting the tool section in our local Wal-Mart when I caught a glimpse of purple down an aisle. At first I thought this was an unusual color to see in a tool section, so it beckoned me to come.

As I approached, I saw this canvas bag, trimmed in more of a lavender than purple, but I’m not one to quibble about that when it’s in my favorite color family. I opened it, saw a number of clever side pockets for storage, inspected the way it was constructed, discovered a handy little side storage pouch, plus another zippered pouch for storage too.  I loved it.  Of course I bought one!

They run about $10 and I don’t think you can beat the value.  It’s pretty awesome as far as I’m concerned.

It’s absolutely perfect for taking the right amount of tools when I go for a lesson at Lexi’s or a workshop at one of the local metal studios.  I could not be happier with this convenient bag to transport tools.  Lexi uses a Plano fishing tackle box and hers is great.  However, they no longer manufacture that model so I tried in vain to find something close to hers.  Well, I found one, that worked sort of, but it was just so frustrating to use and didn’t work well for transporting files, pliers, metal, sand papers, etc.

Now that I have this tool bag, I can pack it as needed for whatever metalsmithing class I’m taking.

This is a view of the inside of mine.  The zippered opening is reinforced with a metal frame so it opens like an old fashioned doctor’s satchel.  Perhaps that’s part of what appealed to me?  It’s great to have that nice wide opening.  From this angle, I’m trying to show the interior side pockets that work well for holding pens, pencils, smaller sheets of metal, pliers, and more.  And some of these side pockets have Velcro to hold things in place.

The bag is approximately 12″ long and I have been able to fit a 12″ ruler in there without any problems.  The opening is roughly 5″ wide so it’s very easy to take things in and out.

This is another pouch that comes with the bag; it fits inside the bag.  I’ve used it for pens and pliers.  There is clear vinyl so you can see what’s inside.  Just a convenient way to know where things are.

Another folding tool holder on the outside.  It’s held in place by Velcro fasteners.  This little side pouch is perfect for holding my files.  You can see I’ve added a little luggage tag with one of my business cards.  Just an easy way to have your identification on the bag.

I just love the convenience of this tool bag system.  It helps keep things well organized in preparation for a traveling to a class or as you are cleaning up after a class.  I find it makes it so simple to inventory what you took and make sure you don’t leave without all of your precious tools!

Stanley also has a line of the hard sided tool boxes in this same family.  I’m tempted, but I don’t really feel I need one in addition to this nice canvas tool carrier.  I’m sure it’s a matter of personal preference.

I have not found these available on Wal-Mart’s website, but they still can be found in their stores…at least our local stores still carry them.  And I’m fairly certain that Stanley tools will help you find a store that carries them as well.  I think they are a pretty valuable addition to the tool arsenal…even if it isn’t a tool, it carries and organizes them very well.

There’s an addendum to add to this post that I know you will enjoy, but that will have to wait until another Talkin’ Tools segment.  For this post, I wanted to focus on Barbara’s Way Tool Bag by Stanley tools.  I highly recommend it.

Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

Metalsmiths Essentials – How To Solder Jewelry

Look what came in the mail this week!  It’s Lexi’s new DVD on How to Solder Jewelry.  Great price too, only $29.95 for 95 minutes of instructions.  That’s less than the cost of a class!

Why am I writing about this in my Talkin’ Tools segment?  Well, I consider having educational DVDs (videos) an essential part of my tool collection too.  I have a modest library of instructional DVDs and I plan to feature some of them in the weeks to come.  They are a great reference for those times when:

  • I am trying to remember what a teacher said
  • How they actually did something in class
  • What was the tool they used for a certain technique or
  • I  am unable to enroll in a class but there is this artist that I REALLY want to take a class from and they have a series of instructional DVDs… I can study at my own pace and if I miss something, rewind and look at it again.  Bonus!

So this week I want to talk about Lexi’s DVD – Metalsmiths Essentials – How To Solder Jewelry available through Interweave.  I pre-ordered it on Monday and got it on Wednesday.  How is that for service from Interweave?  Pretty awesome.

It’s funny, I knew nothing about how to solder jewelry a couple of years ago.  I mistakenly thought because I knew how to solder stained glass, I also knew how to solder jewelry.  WRONG.  Two entirely different processes.  Just because you know how to do one, doesn’t mean you have a clue about the other.  With stained glass, you have a soldering iron.  With jewelry, you use a TORCH!  Must respect the TORCH.

So Lexi taught me how to solder jewelry.  I had the benefit of taking one of her workshops and enjoyed the hands on approach of a classroom setting.  She covered a semesters worth of lessons in a 2 day workshop.  Whew, it was one busy weekend, never a dull moment, and I loved every minute of it.   One of the most important things she showed us was how to safely solder using the big girl torch!  Whoooo Whaaaaa Whooooot!  Ok, it can be called the big boy torch too!  🙂

In this DVD, she starts with all the basics, including how to set up your tank, and moves you forward to learning the technique.  It’s a wonderful refresher course for those of us who know how to solder and it’s so beneficial to be able to watch her with her mastery of the torch and the flame.   There’s a reason why she earned the nickname “The Torch“!  She’s good, damn good.  Careful observation, watch & learn the technique grasshopper.   She discusses options.  Sure, there’s always more than one way to do something, but I recommend following her lead because she knows what she’s doing.

Her 25 years of teaching experience shines in this DVD.  So if you haven’t had a chance to benefit from Lexi’s teaching, this DVD gives you a great learning opportunity.  If you ever do have a chance to take one of Lexi’s classes, just DO IT!  I promise you, you will not be disappointed!  I have benefited from her mentorship.

I think the folks at Interweave are pretty smart cookies too for capturing Lexi’s talent on DVD, just in time for Mother’s Day gift giving too.

Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

The Fretz Mini Forming Stake Set

This set of Fretz Mini Forming Stakes was on my 2010 Christmas list.  Yes, I asked for tools for Christmas!  And Santa….er, hmmm, Dan was very good to me.  It helps to provide a discount code, url, etc. when creating your Christmas Wish List.  Plus, Dan knew how much I wanted these little beauties, because they were on my Christmas list the year before.  At that time, I had expressed a bit of uncertainty about them.  However, as Christmas 2010 drew near, I knew I needed them!  That whole need vs. want thing……

For this week, I wanted to talk about how wonderful mini forming stakes are for the new work I’m doing.  Currently I’m working on flowers and leaves for some new jewelry designs.  I’m using very small pieces of metal, ranging from 1/4″  to just barely 1/2″.   These little stakes help me to add curves and a bit of a bow to make the metal take on the shape of a flower or a leaf.  I want to add a 3D effect to the metal.

I use this particular stake from the set a lot right now.  It’s pretty darn sweet in my opinion.  The stake holder firmly secures the stake on my work surface.  There are 7 stakes in this set and each one has a unique curve, dome, or depression to help you form the metal.  I think each of us who have forming stakes tends to gravitate toward a couple that become our favorites to use.  This one has become one of my favorites.

This photo shows how I position the metal on the stake.  This is a little copper flower I’m working on.  In the background you can see the Fretz hammer that I use to form the metal into the rounded shape I want, with the help of the stake.

My Fretz Double Ended Insert hammer that works extremely well with these stakes.  This hammer comes with a set of plastic heads (shown in the plastic bag in this photo) that you can switch out the hammer ends, depending on what you need to accomplish.  I got this hammer from Otto Frei after I got the stakes.  The stakes and the hammer are designed to work together.  I tried working with another rubber hammer that I had, but it did not work as well as the Fretz.  When Bill Fretz designs his hammers, he does a great job! Plus those rose wood handles feel divine!

The working relationship between the hammer and the stake is very important.  The insert tips for the hammer ends are plastic.  Why plastic?  Well the metalsmiths in the crowd know the answer to this one.  For those of you who don’t, the plastic doesn’t mar the metal when you are shaping it.  That’s important, really important.  You just want the metal to curve and take a desired form with the help of the stake and the hammer blows.  Marring the metal’s surface is not a desirable by-product.  A metal hammer head will cause marks and dings on the metal.  Not good.   Even though I’m discussing the mini stakes in this post, the hammer becomes an inseparable part of the process.  I guess this is a two for the price of one post!

I wish I could tell you this was an action shot with the perfect picture of the perfect hammer blow on the metal….  It’s ‘staged’ if you will, to show this….  The metal is positioned over the stake.  The hammer strikes the metal’s surface which causes it to form over the rounded edge of this stake and create the “puff” I want for the flower.  Pretty cool!  For this picture, I just wanted to show how the hammer head would strike the metal and cause the metal to form over the stake’s surface.  As I work at this, it tends to take a couple of blows and I move the metal around on the stake as I’m trying to achieve the desired effect.

As I mentioned earlier, the pieces of metal I work with for these new designs are pretty small and I do my best to keep my fingers out of the way.  It definitely helps that the hammer has a plastic head!  This hammer comes with 9 different heads as shown in an earlier photo above.  So far I’ve only used 2 out of the 9.  This is a very useful hammer.

So what have I made with these wonderful stakes?  The first thing was a pair of earrings pictured below.  They are a prototype for a show that is coming up in the fall.  I wanted to see what I could do, then develop the technique further.  At the time I started these, I wanted to incorporate stones with the metal shapes.  I’m still debating with myself on this design possibility.  What do you think?  Like the stones?  Just go with metal only?  A mixture of both?

I haven’t given the earrings a title yet….since they are prototypes, they are a starting point for me.  I have others that are only metal and represent leaves, Ginkgo leaves. Those have really evolved.  I will be posting pictures of that work, my new Arts & Crafts series, in the next week.

I hope you see how the metal flowers on these earrings have rounded edges and a flower petal look.  All created by those wonderful Fretz Mini Forming Stakes and their companion Fretz hammer.

Hope you enjoyed this week’s edition of Talkin’ Tools!  Do you have a set of these mini stakes?  Are you thinking about getting them? Let me know.

Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

Lee Marshall’s Knew Concept Saw

You’re gonna LOVE IT!

What am I up to now?  Well, it’s something I hope you will enjoy as a diversion in my blog posts.  I also hope you will find it informative and useful.  I think a number of you know how much I love tools.  Yes, let me repeat that, I LOVE TOOLS!  Anything that makes the job easier, I’m in.

My father taught me the importance of the right tool for the job.  One of my goals with my Talkin’ Tools posts is to let you in on my treasure trove of tools that I love.  The ones that do the job and kick it when it comes to getting the work done.  That’s very important to me and I suspect it’s important to you too.

So how did I get this concept? The credit goes to my genius, Dan!  He’s always thinking.  He’s truly brilliant.

Last week as Dan & I were driving in the mountains, I was telling him that another person had contacted me about my blog post on Cliff Carroll’s Anvils that I called 35 lbs of Metalsmithing Joy.  It was one of my most popular posts last year and it continues to receive a lot of traffic from search engine hits.    I told Dan that I thought part of the reason for its popularity is people ‘google’ items and look for an unbiased opinion or review about a product. I know I do!  My hope is that I can fill a void by discussing those tools and pieces of equipment that help me when I’m working with metal.

Well, Dan is “always thinking” and he suggested that I start writing reviews about my favorite tools or equipment that I use when I’m metalsmithing.  I thought that was a great idea and I hope you concur.  This is my first post in a new Talkin’ Tools category which I plan on publishing every Friday.

Another nudge for me to start these Talkin’ Tools posts, was a comment I saw from my online metalsmithing friend, Sandy Cahill-Johnson.  Sandy had made a comment about breaking saw blades and wondered about a “Knew Saw”?  From her reference, I knew (no pun intended here) she was referring to Lee’s saws and I thought this would be a good tool to discuss.

Of course, Lexi (Erickson) introduced me to this wonderful tool almost a year ago.  Prior to that, I was using this German made saw that I purchased from Lexi during my first metalsmithing workshop with her.

It’s a nice saw.  And the first weekend I used it in Lexi’s workshop, I broke my share of saw blades.  Gotta feel the rhythm, get in the zone when you are sawing.  It comes with practice.

However Lee’s Knew Concept saw can turn a beginner into an intermediate and advanced saw handler in no time flat.  Sure you can still break a saw blade with this, but let me tell you, it’s pretty hard to do that.  I don’t want to say you have to work at it, but I think you really do have to try to break a blade.  Lexi was able to saw with the same blade for a month!  Wow.  I haven’t tracked my record for not breaking a blade, but the design is so good it forgives common errors with sawing.

Helen Driggs has written about this saw in her Tool Tips articles in Lapidary Journal.  Lexi has introduced people to the beauty of using this tool.  It truly is worth the investment.  It comes in several different sizes; I have the 5″ model and it is an all around work horse.  It is my go saw to when I start sawing metal.  Yes you still have to use bur-life or another lube to protect your blade.  I have found that it makes sawing metal like cutting butter!  Easy, easy, easy!!!

Plus, I met Lee Marshal last year at the Colorado Metalsmiths Conference in Salida, CO.  Lee is the nicest person and you can just tell he cares about the quality of his products.  He hit the bullseye with the Knew Concept Saw.  Thank you Lee!

Those metalsmiths in the crowd know how much fun putting a new saw blade in place can be.  With Lee’s Knew Concept, it is virtually effortless.  No more trying to find the right spot to position the saw so you can insert one end of a saw blade.  You know what I’m talking about!  This baby just lets you put the saw blade in position and you are ready to rock and roll.  Or maybe I should say you lock and load?!? 🙂  It’s a joy.

Staying on line and making the twist and turns as you cut out a design is a breeze.  I would highly recommend the Knew Concept saw.  If you have a chance to test drive (saw) one, go for it.  It’s an effortless leap of faith to purchase one in my book.  A number of suppliers have them, yet I went directly to the source, Lee Marshall and purchased mine.

I’d love to know if you have one and are using it? Or are you thinking about it?  If you do buy one, please let me know.  I hope you share my enthusiasm for this wonderful tool.

Until next time, aspire to be more as an artist and a person.

Kathleen Krucoff

Artist and Metalsmith

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